Citrus Countdown- #4 Of Best Citrus Choices

Thanks for checking in to the citrus countdown. When I pondered the idea of a series on the top choices of various categories of fruit trees, I thought it a fairly simple task. Now that I have set out on this journey, I realize how tough it is to narrow down my choices of the best varieties. I am finding this much tougher than I thought. It is like someone asking you "which of your children is your favorite?" How can I answer that question? Certainly, there are characteristics which each one possess that are so fabulous, and of course we all have our failings...I can't pick a favorite. It is impossible.

I even thought I should have an honorable mention category; trees that I really, really like; those that are so close to making the list. I suppose the solution is to get a larger piece of property...with a well.

Alright, I have agonized with the selection of number four on the list for the last thirty-six hours. I even awoke in the middle of the night, still spinning the finalists in my mind. Well, here goes.

Drum roll please.

#4 Meyer Improved Lemon 
Meyer lemon with a typical load of fruit
Adding this tree to the list caused me to deliberate a while. I wanted to keep the list focused on trees that have fruit which is edible straight from the tree. You really can't pick a lemon off the tree and eat it as you would an orange or a mandarin. On second thought, I suppose some folks do that. My grand-daughter Kristiana loves eating this lemon straight. The reason I included it is because although it is not a fruit which can be eaten out of hand, it is so useful otherwise in the kitchen, I can't be without one.

 The Meyer lemon is another citrus which is tagged with the variety of only one of its parents. The Meyer lemon is not a true lemon, it is a lemon hybrid. Though its exact parentage is lost to antiquity, it is widely accepted that the Meyer is a hybrid cross of a lemon and a sweet orange.

This tree was discovered in Peking, China at the turn of the century by a "plant explorer" named Frank Meyer, working for the US Department of Agriculture. Doesn't that sound like the coolest job in the world, plant explorer? Where do I sign up? I'll go! I love stories of the exploits of explorers and collectors. One of my most cherished orchids is an Ansellia Africanis that was brought back from Africa by Frank Buck (often called "Bring'em back alive Frank Buck"...I suppose it beats "Bring'em back dead Frank Buck) on one of his expeditions for the San Diego Zoo.

Mr. Meyer brought back thousands of plant samples to the homeland. The citrus sample he discovered in China was one of his promising specimens...as an ornamental shrub. Yep, that's right, an ornamental shrub; it wasn't even considered as an edible. In China, it was used ornamentally as a courtyard plant and also as a houseplant. I know, I know, citrus aren't grown as houseplants. Tell the Chinese. What were the attributes that Mr. Meyer thought made the "Meyer lemon" a desirable ornamental? It was a diminutive plant. Perfect for growing in pots in the house or on the patio. It had glossy, deep green foliage, which tinted a dark purple with the spring flush of growth. It had flushes of pinkish white, fragrant flowers throughout the year. Meyer thought it a perfect garden shrub, and brought samples back.

It wasn't until after Meyer's death (while on a collecting trip) that a colleague conjectured this citrus might be a good alternative to lemons. It is extremely juicy, with a lemony scent, but is much less acid. When examined side by side with true lemons, such as Lisbon, Eureka, or Ponderosa the differences stand out. It has a much thinner skin, is juicier, the peel has less volatile oils, and the color is a much deeper orangey-yellow, giving a hint of its sweet orange parentage.

The Meyer lemon never became a commercially important variety. It was too juicy, and too thin skinned to ship well. It also was a poor keeper, it would begin to mold soon after picking. While it wasn't a desirable commercial variety, it became an extremely popular backyard fruit tree; particularly in California. That is, until it was discovered it was a symptom-less carrier of deadly citrus viruses including a particularly nasty virus called Tristeza (which ironically means sadness). Immediate destruction by burning was mandated for all the Meyer lemons in the state in the 1960's. Sounds tragic doesn't it?

Ever wonder why we still have Meyer lemons in spite of their death sentence? Ever wonder why we call all Meyer lemons these days "improved" Meyer lemons? A virus free specimen of Meyer was found at Four Winds Nursery, and the new "improved" Meyer lemon was born. The improvement is that all subsequent trees are virus free. All Meyers now in cultivation came from that single virus free tree. Don't I always tell you to thank and support your local nursery?

What are my reasons for selecting Improved Meyer lemon for my top five? Here goes.

1) Extremely vigorous and easy to grow tree. We all know you can't grow citrus indoors. If they grew this as a houseplant, you can certainly be successful with it outdoors. It will even grow on the dry side. It grows like a weed in all citrus regions. It is tolerant of heat and cold.

2) It bears voluminous amounts of fruit. I would have hundreds of pieces of fruit on this tree in a season. I used them everyday. I gave them away. I donated them to food banks. Neighbors would ask for them. You will have more from a single tree than you can ever use. What a problem!

3) It sets fruit year round. While the bulk (probably 60%) of the fruit comes in early spring, you can have enough fruit to keep you happy year round.

4) It is a very attractive tree.  Bear in mind, this tree was brought from China to be used as an ornamental. The fact that it bears tons of fruit wasn't even the reason it was considered worthy. It is also one of the citrus best suited to growing in a container.

5) It is one of the best fruit trees to espalier.  If you haven't grown a fruit tree as an espalier, you really should give it a go. You can utilize otherwise wasted pathways, or narrow areas where a standard tree won't fit. Perfect for today's smaller lots. It looks great too.

6) The juice and zest are delicious, and widely useful in cooking and especially in baking and desserts.  For years, the Meyer lemon was the darling of California's cooks and chefs; it really was our little secret. Shhhhh! Don't tell anyone. After all, the Meyer wasn't even commercially available, it was a backyard fruit from the golden state. Well, the incomparable chef Alice Waters of Chez Panisse began creating with it, lauding its unique flavor profile. Then it happened. Martha Stewart began to push this yummy little citrus. Next thing you know, our little backyard treasure was found by the culinary world. Lemon bars, lemon tarts, lemon-blueberry jam, lemon panna cotta, lemon souffle, lemon sorbet, lemon ricotta cheesecake, limoncello......mmmm, limoncello, did I mention homemade limoncello? The sky is the limit! On Martha Stewart's website alone, there are hundreds of recipes for Meyer lemons.

Plant a Meyer lemon. Poor little thing was almost lost to the world, and now...the darling of the culinary world, and maybe a treasure in your own yard.






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